The Classic Roll Top Desk
Eight side drawers and a generous sized lap drawer give you plenty of storage for all your important office supplies.
6: ASSEMBLE DUST PANELS TO SIDES (B) with glue and clamps. The frames mount flush with the back edge of the sides. Be sure to line up the notches on the fronts of the frames with the front edges of the sides.
Cut the bottom rails (C) to size and attach these with glue and 6-penny finishing nails.
7: ASSEMBLE THE REMAINING PARTS OF THE BASE PEDESTALS First, attach the pedestal facing strips (T) to the exposed edges of the sides. Next, cut the pedestal backs (Y) to size and attach with 2-penny nails.
Make the pedestal base pieces (L & M) and use your Shaper or Router Package to form a decorative edge on the tops of these pieces, if desired. If you're using a Shaper set-up, try the 1/4" and 1/2" Combination Quarter-Round Cutter or an Ogee Cutter. If you're working with your MARK V Router Package, you could use a 3/8" Round-Over Bit or the 5/32" Roman Ogee Bit.
Miter the pieces to fit the Base, then use your Disc Sander to “shave” the mitered edges down for a perfect fit. Attach the pieces to the base with glue and 6-penny finishing nails. Use a nailset to countersink the nail heads, then fill the holes with a high-quality, stainable wood putty.
8: ASSEMBLE THE DESK CASE Start by cutting the back apron (K) to size and then cutting the contoured lower edge with your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw. Drill three dowel holes in each end of the back apron (K) and locate their positions on the pedestals. A set of dowel centers will make easy work of accurately transferring the hole locations from the ends of the back apron to the sides (B) of the pedestals. Once the hole locations are market, you can use your hand-held drill to bore the dowel holes in the sides (B)
Next, cut the center frame supports (N) to finished dimension and attach them to the pedestal sides using #8 x 1-1/4" flathead wood screws. Attach the back apron with 3/8" dowel pins but do not glue them! Then, fasten the center dust panel to the frame supports with #8 x 1-1/4" flathead wood screws.
9: MAKE THE TOP (A) We used veneered plywood for our top because plywood is straight, easy to work with and stable. When cutting this and other large plywood parts to final dimension, it's best to have someone assist you for added safety. If you don't have this option, be sure to use Roller Support Stands or a MARK V Support Table to help you hold and guide your stock through the cuts safely and accurately.
Once you've squared the top, drill four dowel holes into the top edges of each of the four pedestal sides...then drill mating stopped holes into the underside of the top (A). Again, an inexpensive set of dowel centers will save a lot of time in matching-up these hole locations.
Apply the edge strips (R & S) to the top with glue and 5/8" brads. A set of 3-way edge clamps will help you hold these edge strips in position until the glue sets-up.
Mount the top to the two pedestal sides with the dowels. If you choose not to use glue, you'll be able to remove the top from the pedestals easily for moving, if necessary.
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